New York Fashion Week: Hits, Misses & Styling Notes To Savour
Thoughts on fringe, monochrome looks, power suits, and the double-edged nature of quiet luxury.
New York Fashion Week has wrapped over a week ago, and I’m still spinning from all the fringe, monochrome, moody Matrix looks, and cinched waists. Some brands delivered, while others felt uninspired and predictable (yes, I am referring to Calvin Klein’s return to the runway—Greta Lee was a vision, though!).
The challenging economic and political climate in the U.S. has clearly been reflected on the runway—once again proving that fashion is deeply political. Many designers played it safe, reinforcing an aesthetic of quiet luxury that, while undeniably elegant, carries equally undeniable ties to white supremacy and classism. Quiet luxury is about discretion—whispered wealth, coded status, and an intentional distance from the flashiness often associated with new money or marginalized communities reclaiming opulence. It’s a style language that signals exclusivity, rewarding those already in the know while keeping others out.
That’s why pushing back is necessary. Fashion has always been a means of self-expression, of resistance, of rewriting narratives. In times of crisis, do we really want to retreat into uniformity, or should we be embracing the bold, the expressive, the culturally rich? Thankfully, brands like Diotima, Eckhaus Latta, and Collina Strada refuse to fade into beige.
That said, there were plenty of ideas and styling moments worth noting. Here’s a breakdown of my favourites.
Tory Burch
Tory Burch has been redefining her brand, and this season at MoMA, she twisted American sportswear into something playful yet polished. Familiar silhouettes got unexpected treatments—experimental but still wearable.
Exciting? Absolutely. But when will this new era actually hit e-commerce (because yikes)?
My styling notes: joggers with fur coats, wide shirt sleeves, and silver-framed oval sunglasses.
KHAITE
A mix of surreal edge and old-world romance, with all the signature KHAITE polish. Holstein’s references to David Lynch came through in moody, cinematic layers: loose dark-rinse jeans paired with unraveling corsets and boxy tees, chunky knits with exposed backs, and plenty of rich leather.
My styling notes: monochrome black leather, long gloves, layered bustiers over shirts, dark tights, and a very good excuse to borrow my dad’s old Georgian hat.
Eckhaus Latta
Eckhaus Latta set out to refine their process this season, stripping things back to the essentials—but in their hands, “basics” never feel basic, with pieces that gently wrap, drape, or unravel around the body.
My styling notes: leather, leather, and more leather—especially when it’s layered, deconstructed, or unexpectedly soft.
FFORME
Frances Howie’s vision came to life through masterfully tailored pieces crafted by three generations of Italian artisans. Wrapped jackets, secured with delicate horsehair-like charms (which, as it turns out, were repurposed violin bows), paired with suiting that perfectly balanced power and play. Fringe trailed down trousers burst from the hems of classic coats, and fully took over a deep V-neck gown at FFORME.
My styling notes: I’ll have fringe and tassel on everything, please—pants, necklace, belt, doesn’t matter. Kallmeyer was all about that fringe too.
Christopher John Rogers
Known for his big event dresses, CJR proved he’s just as sharp with everyday wear. Beyond his signature stripes, he played with slinky knits, oversized shirting, and masculine tailoring. Of course, he didn’t abandon his flair for drama—proof that color, tailoring, and texture can work together beautifully.
My styling notes: pairing halternecks, stripes, and razor-sharp tailoring—because why choose between structure and romance?